Chinese dumplings in Florence, closed by hand

Did you know?: «三鲜» (sānxiān) means «three fresh things»: in the vegetarian version they are usually Chinese chives, egg and a hint of the sea — dried shrimp or wood-ear mushroom. But «three», in Chinese, often just means «many», and every northern region argues over which three are the real ones.

Did you know?: Beef dumplings are rarer than pork ones for an old reason: for centuries the ox was the animal that worked the fields, and many dynasties banned its slaughter. Beef stayed the meat of China's Muslim communities, and to this day steamed beef dumplings are a speciality of Xi'an, where the filling is stirred always in one direction so it keeps its juice.

Did you know?: «Crystal» shrimp dumplings — 虾饺 (har gow) — are a Cantonese dim sum classic, born in the early 1900s in a teahouse outside Guangzhou, where the shrimp were caught in the river right beside it. The translucent wrapper, of wheat and tapioca starch, reveals the filling; tradition asks for thirteen pleats on each dumpling, steamed in the bamboo basket.

Did you know?: 水饺 (shuijiao), boiled dumplings, are one of the signature dishes of northern Chinese cuisine, where tradition has them prepared especially during Chinese New Year: their shape recalls ancient silver ingots, which is why they are seen as a good omen for prosperity. The vegetarian version, with vegetables and egg, is among the most loved.

Did you know?: Chinese chives and pork may be the North's best-loved filling. The character 韭 (jiǔ, chives) sounds exactly like 久 (jiǔ, «a long time»): so this is the dumpling of wishes for happiness and wealth that last. And like the plant, which grows back every time you cut it, it stands for life renewing itself without end.

Did you know?: It comes from a Northeastern Chinese classic, the pork-and-fermented-cabbage (酸菜) dumpling, salted in autumn to last through the freezing Dongbei winter. German sauerkraut is almost the same thing: the very same fermentation, just a different cabbage. And its sourness cuts the fat of the pork — a balance that works the same in Harbin and in Bavaria.

Did you know?: 煎饺 (pan-fried jiaozi) are the seared version of China's famous dumplings: first cooked covered with a little water, then left to sizzle until the base turns crisp. This double cooking — steam and fry — gives the contrast of textures that makes them irresistible. Garlic chives (jiucai) are one of the most traditional and beloved fillings.